The Paragon has sat empty for eight years. Locals fear it might soon be gone for good

When the Simos family’s Paragon Cafe in Katoomba was NSW heritage listed 11 years ago, its intact art deco interiors featuring marble and mirrors were described as “possibly unique” in Australia.

Vacant now for eight years, its ornate decor has been vandalised and its fittings stolen, with photos showing new graffiti and illegal entry.

“Many locals have moved from frustration to resignation that their beloved gem, The Paragon, is lost,” said the latest update by the Friends of the Paragon. Many fear it’s too late to save what was one of the finest of the thousands of Greek cafes and milk bars that fed Australia before fast food killed the mixed grill.

The NSW government alleged this week that the owner of the Paragon, John Landerer of Conset Investments Pty Ltd, has breached a heritage order issued in November to maintain the property, particularly its fire protection, to a minimum standard.

The allegation followed an inspection by a new compliance unit, the Biodiversity and Heritage Regulator, on March 2.

“It is extremely disappointing that the Paragon Cafe continues to require regulatory action to ensure compliance,” said a government spokesperson.

It was considering compliance and enforcement options, which could include court action, to ensure the premises were maintained to a minimum standard as required under the NSW Heritage Act, a spokesperson said.

Landerer has the right to appeal against the order.

Rod Stowe, the chair of the Blue Mountains Branch of the National Trust, said “continued neglect and inaction on the part of the owner and responsible authorities may ultimately prove prejudicial to the survival of this highly significant building”.

To the descendants of the Greek cafes and milkbars, the survival of the Paragon was personal.

Speaking at a preview of a new documentary, Australia’s Greek Cafes & Milk Bars: Shaken & Stirred by Fork Productions, Janet France (nee Keldoulis) said it was devastating.

“It breaks my heart,” she said. France and her brother Rob Keldoulis (who also funded the documentary) are the grandchildren of the founder of the Black & White 4d Milk Bar, Mick Adams, that operated in Martin Place.

“[The Paragon] was so beautiful back in those days, especially the back rooms with art deco,” said France. She said “Aunty Mary” [as she called Mary Simos] would send them one of the Paragon’s famous homemade chocolate eggs every Easter.

Liz Kaydos was asked to make the documentary by photographer Effy Alexakis, and historian Leonard Janiszewski, who have been researching the Greek-Australian story for 50 years.

It was a story close to Kaydos’ heart. “I spent the first year of my life as a cafe kid in a little country town [Lockhart NSW].” Her Greek parents offered an Aussie mixed grill. More adventurous locals would eat Greek food with the Kaydos family in their kitchen.

Most people then didn’t like the smell of garlic. The Greek born television presenter John Mangos recalled getting detention because his lunch smelled of garlic.

Christina Kompos, 85, worked in five cafes across NSW and Victoria for 60 years. “They didn’t know much about European cuisine. It was steak, steak sandwiches, steak and eggs, rice and eggs,” she said.

Like many other Greek cafe owners, she’d visited the Paragon. “It is beautiful … but these cafes don’t exist any more.”

Many recalled being helped by the Simos family. Others came from Kythera, the same Greek island, or sold them supplies, like potatoes grown locally. A woman still had a Paragon napkin that her father had kept.

They didn’t know much about European cuisine. It was steak, steak sandwiches, steak and eggs,  rice and eggs.

Christina Kompos

The Friends’ president Rob Strange said the risk of fire was great. “We have a thuggish element in town … with a habit of breaking [into empty properties] and committing arson.”

Landerer’s company, Conset Investments Pty Ltd, has been issued two orders under the Heritage Act 1977, the first on May 14 last year which was modified and reissued in July, and another on November 26.

Landerer did not respond to the Herald’s emails and phone calls.

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