The chill of autumn has begun to sweep through Kashmir, bringing with it the unmistakable rhythm of wooden mallets pounding tender lamb in courtyards and narrow alleys. Across Srinagar and the surrounding regions, families prepare for Wazwan—an elaborate, multi-course feast centered around mutton that has been at the heart of Kashmiri weddings since the 14th century.
## A Culinary Heritage Rooted in History
Wazwan was introduced to the Kashmir Valley alongside carpet weavers and shawl craftsmen during the 14th-century migrations from Central Asia. Over centuries, it evolved into more than just a feast—it became a symbol of identity, tradition, and social prestige.
For many Kashmiris, few things carry deeper cultural weight than Wazwan. It’s not merely about food; it’s about belonging and ancestry.
## The Guardians of Wazwan
One of the most respected keepers of this culinary tradition is 74-year-old chef Ghulam Nabi Baba. He was born into a lineage of cooks from Wazpora, a district in Srinagar’s old city, whose members were renowned for their Wazwan skills.
“Originally, there were only seven mutton dishes,” Baba reflects. “Over time we increased them, and now there are around 20.”
He emphasizes that the number of dishes—and the amount of meat used—carries significance. Forty years ago, in one village called Delina, a wedding feast consumed 4,500 kg (almost 10,000 lb) of meat—an event considered enormous. In contrast, a more typical celebration uses around 200 kg (440 lb).
## Keeping Traditional Techniques Alive
Despite the expansion of the menu, the core culinary techniques in Wazwan remain largely unchanged. The meat is manually pounded, then slowly cooked over wood fires using heavy-bottomed copper pots known as degchis—methods passed down through generations.
Signature dishes such as rogan josh, rista (meatballs in red gravy), gushtaba (meat cooked in yoghurt), and tabak maaz (fried ribs) continue to form the heart of the feast. These dishes showcase the distinct smoky flavor and texture achieved through time-tested preparation.
## Shifting Tides: Evolving with the Times
Wazwan remains a marker of wealth and prestige, but modern demands and changing lifestyles are reshaping how this tradition manifests. Baba’s own son, for example, has chosen to operate a restaurant rather than continuing with wedding catering. He cites the grueling physical and temporal demands of wedding preparations as the reason for this shift.
Other young chefs have embraced restaurant entrepreneurship to keep Wazwan relevant in urban settings. While the environment shifts, the core goal remains—preserving centuries-old culinary heritage even as presentation, setting, and pace adapt.
## Modern Dining and Social Signifiers
In recent years, restaurants in Srinagar that serve Wazwan have become gathering spots for celebration—mirroring weddings in function if not always in scale. Such establishments allow diners to experience taste, ambience, and cultural resonance outside of ceremony halls.
However, weddings still dominate when it comes to grand displays of tradition. The volume of food, number of dishes, and efforts invested in authentic cooking styles continue to be a way families communicate their standing.
## Preservation Through Adaptation
Adapting Wazwan isn’t about modernization for its own sake—it’s about survival. The heavy labour and long hours demanded by traditional wedding feasts make such work unsustainable for many younger chefs. Restaurants offer more manageable work schedules and consistent income.
Despite the shift in venue, chefs maintain traditional flavours and cooking methods. Meat pounding, wood-fired cooking, and copper degchis remain central to ensuring authenticity.
## Wazwan as a Symbol of Kashmiri Identity
Through its changing forms, Wazwan continues to serve as a powerful expression of Kashmiri heritage. It acts as a marker of community identity, unity, and resilience, especially in a region where culture and tradition can carry political weight.
Even smaller weddings, or those presented in restaurant settings, strive to include the key dishes, cookware, and techniques that link them to their ancestors—keeping alive both history and communal memory.
## Looking Ahead: Wazwan’s Future
As Kashmir moves toward modernity, Wazwan stands at a crossroads. It must balance evolving lifestyles and market conditions with the values and methods that make it unique. Chefs like Baba and his son are deciding where to draw the line between efficiency and tradition.
For many, Wazwan’s survival depends on this delicate balance—of embracing change without losing the essence of what has been treasured for six centuries.
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